Monday, March 31, 2014

Sunday 30 March

Although we weren't moving today, we still had our regular 6:30 wake up call and were on the road before 8:00.  We went to Masada, a mountain fortress legendary for all Jews and Israelis.  Herod the Great built a palace there, and in about 70AD a group of Jewish rebels from the north of the country settled there to escape the Romans.  But they were blockaded and a ramp was built for a big siege engine to come up and burn the gate down.  Reportedly the rebels killed all their women and children before drawing lots to see who would be the last to die.  Many modern Israeli youth make pilgrimages to climb the mountain.  Because we are old we went up and back in the cable car.  We looked around at the ruins and then came down and went through the museum.




 
In the afternoon we went shopping then went to the beach. The Dead Sea is a s strange as everyone says.  You lie around on your back and your feet go up in the air, and you have great trouble bringing them down to the seabed to stand up.  And it tastes foul and stings your eyes, and then you have to get out and have a shower.
At the shops I realised I didn't have my bank card, so I spent all evening searching bags and trying to make international phone calls to sort it out.


Saturday 29 March

Blogger on my phone has died, so now I will do it on the laptop.  This means that I can put photos in the middle of the story, but I may not be able to post as often. 

We were on our way by 8:30. Our first stop was Madaba, to see an ancient map of the Middle East set in mosaics on the floor of a Greek Orthodox church.

 
There were lots of good little shops along the way and I just had to buy ' nativity 4 '. We called in briefly at a mosaic making place which also sold lots of other expensive stuff that we didn't want. Then we drove to Mt Nebo. This is where Moses was shown the Promised Land before he died. It was very hazy, but we could see Jericho and the Dead Sea.


Wattle on Mt Nebo




We reached the border crossing at about 12:30 and left Jordan soon after. But then we sat in a queue of cars and buses which inched past numerous Israeli check points and across the Jordan creek until we finally got to the place where we could unload ourselves and the bags, which didn't even have to go through the x-ray machine.  Time spent 2hrs 45 mins.
 This put us out for the rest of the afternoon. We called in briefly at Qumran where the Dead Sea scrolls were found, and then even more briefly at En Gedi where David hid in the caves from King Saul. We went for a quick walk up a trail and saw some hyraxes.


Then we got to the hotel at 17:30. When we reached our room house keeping were still making it up, so we sat and waited, and David went down for coffee.  They finally gave us another room,  but our luggage didn't come until 18:55. So much for getting the washing done early. We were hanging the washing out later when a helicopter landed just across the road and transferred a patient to a waiting ambulance.  Must be a hospital nearby.

Saturday, March 29, 2014

Friday 28 March

There was a cold wind blowing when I got up to take some photos. We got away pretty early,  stopping at an ATM before reaching Petra at 9:30. It took us about it 1.5hrs to walk down through the gorge to the famous Treasury building which is actually a royal mausoleum. In fact the whole place is full of tombs of the  Nabataeans from C3 BC. Our guide left us to wander on our own which we did. As it is Friday schools are closed and there were lots of pint-sized peddlers,  some who looked only about 3 or 4. We made our way slowly down to the temple before we decided that this was far enough and we headed back.  Since David has a cold and is feeling miserable, and I'm never one for walking up, we had decided to pay for a ride back to the gate. The bus took off for Amman at 14:45 Middle East summer time.
Most of us had a bit of a snooze then we stopped at a road house /gift shop along the way and got to the hotel at 18:15.
At 19:00 we went to a local restaurant them all came home to bed.

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Thursday 27 March

Today we had a mini-bus, so were too squashed to take many photos.  We drove north of Eliat to Timba Park where we saw interesting geological features,  sites of ancient significance and an authentic model of  the Exodus Tabernacle, which was explained very well. Back in town we visited a stone/crystal jewelry maker, then went to the mall (bags checked before entering) to buy SIM cards and McD's for lunch.
Then it was through the border crossing and into Jordan where our new guide and a nice big bus were waiting.
It took about 2 hours to get to our accommodation at Taybet Zaman near Petra. This is a whole village which has been converted to guest accommodation,  with each house becoming a suite.  It is beautiful, and dinner in the restaurant was great.

Wednesday 26th March

Today's wake-up call was early - 1:00. By 1:30 we were walking through the monastery grounds to the camel compound and by 1:45 we were on our way up Mt Sinai. The camel ride took us 2/3 of the way in 1.5hrs. Then there were 750+ steps to climb. A Bedouin guide was assigned to help me, and with his support and my mountain climbing stick we reached the last rest house just as the sky was lightening. We all waited for 45 mins and made the final assault on the summit in time for sunrise at 5:48.
The climb down was very hard, the path rutted, rocky and gravelly that we hadn't seen in the dark. The stragglers took more than an hour on top of the others and were thoroughly exhausted. We had just enough time for a quick shower, get our bags to the bus and stuff a bit of cold breakfast before we were off at 10:15 to meet the police escorted convoy to Taba, at the top of the Gulf of Aquaba. It was very quiet trip as most people slept. So we said a sad farewell to Gigi and Hashem,  who had been fantastic,  and crossed over the border into Israel.
Our new guide met us and took us to the hotel.  We went to the beach but it was rocky and cold water, so we  came back to the pool for a quick swim before dinner and an early night. 

Tuesday 25th March

I missed sunrise by 10mins, then we slowly got ourselves organised and went down to the beach where 6 were having an early morning swim. After breakfast we went too. The wster was so clear, a real turquoise,  and reef fishes swimming by. We headed off at about 11:00, with a brief stop at a road house to buy junk snacks for lunch. The road through the Sth Sinai mountains winds and climbs and we passed through several road blocks. It rained briefly and later we were told that there had been a real downpour which flooded the road. At the main intersection our police escort vehicle didn't come and Gigi talked them into letting us go on anyway.  We reached St Catherine's at 15:50, just in time for our planned tour around the monastery. We stayed at the monastery accommodation, and all went to bed very early.

Wednesday, March 26, 2014

Monday 24 March

We packed our bags and said goodbye to the Marriott, then headed to old Cairo, the Coptic area. These people are descendants of the ancient Egyptians and are mostly Christian.  We visited St Mary's hanging church, C4, and Sts Sergius and Bacchus church, the 2nd and oldest churches in Egypt. The latter was built over a cave said to have been inhabited by the Holy Family when they fled from Herod. We also went to a no-longer-used synagogue. We headed to Giza by way of a papyrus making shop.  
The pyramids are the great tourist attraction you would expect- people,  peddlers,  animals- but they are huge and solid and ancient.
We climbed on the big one, patted the third and admired the second from a distance. We went to the sphinx and temple and it was time to go. Stopped at an Egyptian cotton shop on the way out.
We had been booked on a plane at 17:45, but it was cancelled, so we changed to 19:15. We loaded up, bussed for miles around the tarmac, started out to the runway and stopped. There was a problem with the plane, so they bussed us back, we waited, they bussed us out again and we took off at 20:30. Sharm el Sheik is a tourist diving resort popular with Brits, Russians and Italians. Its a hard life.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Sunday 23 March

We started the day with another felucca ride -a bit cooler than the last time. Then we spent nearly 5 hours at the Egyptian museum, an extensive collection of 7000 years of history of one nation. No photos. But it's set out in a very old style, lots of relics in glass cases with small or no labels. They are building a new one,  and I hope they'll put in more chairs.
We ate in the bus, then drove through town to 'garbage city', a section of the city whose residents - mostly Coptic Christians - sort rubbish. They have excavated a huge church (10, 000 capacity) out of the sandstone mountain.

Now we are back and getting ready for another boat dinner, this time with belly dancing.  Tomorrow morning we will leave the Marriott, do Giza, and in the evening fly to Sharm el Sheik on the Gulf of Aquaba,  to prepare for our assault on Mt Sinai. Don't know when I'll be back.

Saturday 22nd March

Today was our Islam day. We started at the Citadel,  which was built by Saladin in C12. It was the seat of government until C19. The adjoining mosques were built about C19, one in Egyptian style the other Italian. We visited another 2 mosques. We had about an hour on our own exploring one of the market places, being constantly greeted - " where you from? Ozzie ozzie! "or pressured " How can I take your money? "
We often drive past the City of the dead. The bones in the mausoleums are collected and put aside and people move in. It's better than no home at all.

We had a rest back at the hotel,  and then went to Giza to the sound and light show at the pyramids.  I'm told it was pretty good but I missed a bit. Zzzz Then we had seafood dinner, 5 courses,  from the Red Sea, then went home.

Friday 21 March

We had to get up early, say goodbye to our crew and get to Aswan airport for the 9:30 flight to Abu Simbel, about 300km south almost to Sudan. It took only 30min, then we got an Egyptian Air  bus to our last 2 ancient temples. This is another site saved from the dam by UNESCO. There are some really big statues and lots of  interesting carvings.
Back on the plane and I discovered that there was wifi at the airport. But we got back to the Marriott and found that they have free wifi in the lobby so now we're set for a few days. On the way back we stopped for a 4 course Italian meal on a floating restaurant on the Nile.  It was very crowded because it was Mothers' Day. It reminded us of another Italian meal on a boat.

Saturday, March 22, 2014

Thursday 20th March

We left the boat fairly early and for our first stop went to the Unfinished Obelisk. Then via the old dam, built early 1900s by the British,  to the High Dam, built by Russians in 1960s. 42 villages and about 17 temples were moved to make way for Lake Nasser. On the way back we caught a boat to the island called Philae where UNESCO moved the temple about 500m. On the way back to town we stopped at a perfumery where we all had a mini massage with their oil essences.
We had a rest after lunch and some people dressed up again. We then climbed onto a feluka and sailed up the river to the Old Cataract hotel where we had another low High Tea and a bit of a look around where Agatha Christie wrote Death on the Nile.
After dinner we were entertained by a group of Nubian dancers which was great fun.

Wednesday 19 March

I was already awake when the mosque across the road started at 4:30am. The engines started at 5:20, and I got up to see the sunrise.
At 9:15 we headed off by horse and carriage to Edfu temple, through the market place and the crazy traffic. Already we are feeling a bit ABT. We got back to the boat for lunch and a loaf, and then were at Kom Ombo for another temple, some mummified crocodiles and sunset.
This evening we all dressed for dinner in our Egyptian gear, then had a party afterwards.  Spain v Oz in silly games. By bedtime we were at Aswan.

Tuesday 18th March

We were allowed to sleep in for a bit, then went by bus to the Karnak temples complex, which dates from the Middle Kingdom and covers 2 sq kms. Pillars, obelisks, hieroglyphics all huge and amazing.  We came home and were having lunch when the boat started to move.
We sat on deck watching the world go by until a small boat came along side and peddlers started to throw their towels and tablecloths up to us to buy. They got a bit cross when I wouldn't buy and when someone threw stuff back and it landed in the water. These peddlers are extremely persistent and they are at every tourist site. They get right in your face and pester and pester, dropping their prices bit by bit. They really spoil the shopping experience because they won't take NO. Anyway I had to go because it was time for our massages.
We got to Esna lock and peddlers came from everywhere. They yelled and threw things. Some were cross and made rude gestures but others had a bit of fun. Then we stopped for the night. There was a small cocktail party in the bar before tea, and after we had a bit of a disco.